Should I rebuild the 350 or do an LS swap in my square body, and what does an LS swap really cost?
The case for the LS: better heads (15° valve angle), a roller cam, crank-driven oiling, cross-bolted mains and coil-near-plug ignition. Stock, it makes more power per cubic inch, and it responds better to mods. Speedway rates it the better choice for long-term reliability.
The case for rebuilding the 350: simple, familiar and cheap to repair. Built to the same standard — roller cam, electronic ignition, EFI — a small block can also go 200,000+ miles. Building a 350 to beat a modified LS usually costs a lot more, though.
What the swap costs: it depends on how much you do yourself and whether you reuse the transmission. Our squarebody swap guide lists sourced parts with prices, and the swap cost estimator builds a budget line by line from those lists.
If the truck or car already had a small block, the LS drops in with a handful of swap parts: LS-specific motor mounts (the bolt pattern is different), an oil pan that clears the crossmember, and either your GM transmission with an adapter or an LS-pattern transmission — the bellhousing patterns differ slightly. EFI also needs a harness, a computer and a high-pressure fuel system.
| Small-block Chevy | LS | |
|---|---|---|
| Valve angle | 23° (stock heads) | 15°, cathedral or rectangle port |
| Cam | Flat tappet or roller | Roller only |
| Oil pump | Distributor-driven, rear pickup | Crank-driven gerotor, front pickup |
| Ignition | Distributor | Coil-near-plug, no distributor |
| Bottom end | Many older blocks are two-bolt main | Cross-bolted mains |
| Dressed weight (Speedway) | about 575 lb | about 430–470 lb (aluminum) |
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Confidence: medium — sources disagree or are limited; check the sources below.
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