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What is a realistic budget for a complete DIY turbo build on a stock 4.8 truck, and what does the parts list look like?

We don't have verified kit prices, so here's the parts list and where the money goes.

Keep the boost sane: Speedway recommends no more than 8 psi on a stock-bottom-end 4.8. Its rod ratio suits boost better than the 5.3's, but the powdered-metal rods and rod bolts are the limit, and the pistons are the weak point beyond that. Double-digit boost usually means a forged crank and rods.

Parts list:

  • Turbo, hot side (manifolds or turbo headers, crossover), cold side, intercooler and wastegate. For a single turbo, cast iron manifolds are the easier hot side.
  • Larger injectors and a bigger fuel pump. Stock injectors are barely enough for factory power.
  • A cam, springs and converter matched to boost.
  • A tune from an experienced calibrator. Air/fuel ratio, timing and boost have to be balanced across the rpm range.

Where to save on the turbo: a cast compressor wheel instead of billet saves at least a few hundred dollars, and a journal-bearing turbo instead of ball-bearing saves a few hundred more. They spool a little slower but can still support around 700 hp at the wheels. Doing the install yourself saves the most.

Speedway notes a 4.8 can reach power levels like a turbo 6.0 with a bit more boost.

Confidence: medium — sources disagree or are limited; check the sources below.

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