Is a mail order tune good enough, or do I need a dyno tune?
Per Casey Rance of MailOrderTuner in LSX Magazine:
- Email ("bench") tune: built from your parts list and the tuner's experience.
- Street tune: you datalog while driving; the tuner revises the file until it's right.
- Dyno tune: adds dyno testing, which shows problems logs alone may not — such as an engine making less power than it should.
- His view: a dyno isn't necessary for most cars, but it catches mechanical problems. He recommends one for very high power (1,000 hp and up) and for verifying a new combination.
- Get the basics right first: actual fuel pressure, MAF placement and tube size, a complete setup, and correct tire and gear data.
Confidence: medium — sources disagree or are limited; check the sources below.
Related questions
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- What is the exact procedure to disable DoD/AFM in the tune without a mechanical delete kit?
- How do I set up 6L80E part-throttle and WOT shift tables after a gear and tire change in an engine swap?
- How do I add a real flex fuel sensor to an E38 Camaro and dial in E85 — what needs adjusting beyond enabling multifuel?
- What is needed to segment-swap a 4L60e E38/T42 truck to a 4L80E?
- Does simply selecting 4L80E under the transmission tab convert a 4L60E tune, or is a segment swap required?
Sources
- Q&A: Remote Tuning With Casey Rance Of MailOrderTuner.com — LSX Magazine